Leather Weight Measurements

Leather hides are measured in ounces per square foot.  The names of the weights are a loose standard and leather workers will use the descriptive names to mean different weights.  Some names overlap different weights like chap weight and latigo. Make sure you clarify the weights when ordering your leathers.  Also, the leather thickness may not be uniform throughout the material.

1 oz. Plonge - Linings for jocks, shorts, shirts, masks; pouches, flimsy shirts or skirts. Also, thin gloves, and piping.

2 oz. Light garment weight - Moldings, watch bands, jocks, piping, fashion shirts and vests. Also, quilts.

2.5 oz Garment weight or Shirt weight - Shirts, vests, gym wear, fashion pants.

3 oz. Pant weight or Heavy garment weight - Police style shirts, light pants & chaps, bar vests, light jacket.

4 oz. Chap weight - Motorcycle chaps and pants, heavy jacket.

5 oz. Chap weight - Western show chaps, heavy motorcycle leathers.

6 oz. Latigo - Stiff chap.

7 oz. Latigo - Stiffer chaps and saddles.

8 oz. Belt - Belts, armor, holsters, sheaths, harness.

Needle Points

This is the point of the needle that is used in your sewing machine. The following are recommendations for sewing with leather.

System & No: 130/706 H-J size: 90-110

Needle point & eye: Acute ball point

Suitable for: light canvas, blue jeans, heavy linen, workwear, and Twill

System & No:  130/705 H-LR size 70-100  

Needle point & eye: Narrow wedge point (cuts right)

Suitable for: Leather, suede, kid leather, goatskin

System & No:  130/705 H-PCL size 80-110 

Needle point & eye: Narrow wedge point left twist groove 

Suitable for: Imitation leathers, plastics, and oil cloth 

Threads

For sewing leather garments and other light weight leathers you will need a multi-strand, Nylon thread in the upholstery weights.  Cotton thread and Rayon threads in upholstery weight do not hold up as well to the daily wear and tear of leather clothing and do not last as long.